Watch trend: Field watches

This season we find many military style Field watches in the collections of a surprisingly large number of different brands. It has been a popular watch type for years and has never really gone away. But what exactly is a 'field watch' and why should this type of watch not be missing from your collection? Time to dive into this trend.

What is a field watch?

Field watches are originally military watches. At first they were called 'trench watches' because they were first used there during the First World War. These watches have a very simple design without unnecessary features or frills to ensure optimal legibility. They are also watches with an accurate and reliable movement that the soldier could rely on.

Military history of the field watch

Field watches (the first wristwatches!) were worn by British officers during the First World War. They liked the ease of use of this type of watch, which is why field watches became part of the standard equipment for all soldiers during World War II. After the war, the troops returned home with their field watches and continued to wear them for work and outdoor sports activities.

The origins of the field watch design stem from the technical specifications of the 1940 US military watch entitled 94-27834B (later FSSC 88-W-800). Watch manufacturers Elgin, Bulova and Waltham were the first to produce models with these specifications. Hamilton later produced a watch based on the FSSC 88-W-800 specifications as well.

The British Army used roughly the same specifications for military watches as the Americans, although they opted for a small seconds hand at the 6 o'clock mark instead of a long seconds hand. Twelve companies, including Omega, IWC and JLC, produced these 'Wrist Watch Waterproof' (WWW) watches according to the British War Office specification R.S./Prov/4373A. These original watches from the 1940s are highly sought after by collectors today and are affectionately called 'The Dirty Dozen', after the war film of the same name starring among others Lee Marvin, Charles Bronson and Telly Savalas.

What is the difference between a field watch and a pilot's watch?

Classic, early aviator watches look a bit like a field watch. They also have a clear, readable dial and luminous numbers, but often include additional functionalities such as a second time zone. Pilot watches are also often larger for legibility and have a longer strap that can be worn over the flight jacket. Later pilot watches had more and more functions, such as a tachymeter, while field watches have always remained simple.

Characteristics of a field watch

- Small size. Usually 38-38mm increasing to 40mm.

- High-contrast dial. White with black numbers and hands or black with white and clear lumen for readability in the dark. Often with a (luminous) marking at 12 o'clock.

- Clear seconds hand (sometimes in a sub-dial) and hack function.

- Many field watches have a 24-hour indication for military time in addition to the regular hours and minutes.

- Made of robust material such as stainless steel, titanium or carbon.

- Camouflage colours and matte materials to prevent unintentional reflection, allowing the soldier to be spotted by the enemy.

- Sturdy, comfortable watch strap. Usually a textile NATO strap or a thick leather strap. Most brands avoid stainless steel bracelets on a field watch because they make the watch heavier.

- Good waterproofing.

- Anti-reflective (sapphire) glass.

Made for adventure

Field watches symbolize strength and military history. They are built for adventure. This means that they must be able to withstand dust, water and shocks. That is why field watches are more than suitable for busy everyday life and are also popular for outdoor sports activities. By focusing more on function than style, this type of watch has become timeless.

Why you should have a Field watch in your collection

Many watch collectors like to wear a watch with history and the field watch has plenty of that. Especially when you choose a brand that has been making this type of watch since the Second World War, such as Hamilton or Bulova. Field watches are also an excellent choice for active people who value functionality and style. You can count on a field watch. At the same time, the simple design and understated colour scheme ensure that the watch does not compete with the rest of your outfit or other accessories.

Can I wear a field watch every day?

Field watches have transcended their military roots and are very suitable for people with a casual sporty clothing style. The simple design makes them ideal for everyday use. Despite the sporty appearance of field watches, their often modest size also makes them very suitable to wear with a business casual outfit.

Watch.co.uk recommended Field watches

The good news is that field watches are available in all price ranges and from very diverse brands. Watch.co.uk recommends the following models from our collection:

We start - naturally, I would almost say - with the mechanical Hamilton H69529933 Khaki Field. The design of this watch dates back to the 1960s and has remained virtually identical since then.

For those who like the field style, but want a more casual look, we highly recommend the Timex Weekender series. These are modern field watches with lighting and also very competitively priced!

The Sporty AW1571-09A Military from Citizen's new collection is a stylish, 1970s-inspired field watch. The watch contains a solar movement; Better for the environment and always a running watch.

And finally, we would also like to draw attention to the Seiko 5 series. Not necessarily a military watch, but developed for active young people and with lots of elements from the military or outdoor style..

These four watches are just a small selection from our range. If you'd like to see more, take a look at our military watches page for the full overview. And did you know that many of our modern watch straps also draw inspiration from military innovations? You can read more about this in our blog about types of watch straps.