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Types of watch straps; Which suits my watch best?

Posted 19 June 2024 by Miriam Reading time approximately 10 minutes

Everyone knows that watch straps come in different colours and materials such as leather, rubber and metal. But did you know that there are also big differences in style and function between watch straps of the same material? The type of watch strap is very decisive for the look of the watch. In this article we will show you what types of watch straps there are, how they originated and which watches they match with.

Leather watch straps

The most commonly used material for watch straps is leather. The biggest strength of a leather watch strap is its wearability. While metal bracelets are rigid and often feel uncomfortable, a leather strap will gradually soften and adapt to the shape of the wrist. The leather watch strap with a buckle or folding clasp is mostly found on classic analogue watches. But of course that doesn't mean that a leather strap is boring; leather is in fact super versatile and available in lots of varieties, each with its own look. From tough nubuck to soft and refined ostrich leather and vegan fruit leather.

 

Besides the 'ordinary' leather watch strap, there are leather straps with a special - often military - background and function such as the aviator strap, rally strap and cuff strap.

 

Aviator or pilot bands

The leather aviator strap was developed during World War II for the German air force. This type of strap has two specific features: two metal rivets next to the lugs to reinforce the strap, and the straps are extra long because they had to fit over the thick leather flight jackets. Over time the aviator strap has outgrown its functional origins and the rivets are now mostly decorative.

 

Naturally, an aviator strap looks very good with a classic pilot's watch, but due to its rugged appearance, it also fits perfectly with rugged outdoor watches and chronographs. You will find this type of strap mainly with brands with a military background such as Hamilton  and Swiss Military

 

TW Steel Volante Fast Lane SVS206
▴ TW Steel Volante Fast Lane SVS206 with aviator strap
Hamilton Khaki field h71706830
▴ Hamilton Khaki field h71706830 with cuff strap

 

Bund or cuff straps

The bund- or cuff strap also originated with the German Luftwaffe. The extra layer of leather under the watch case provided insulation in cold and heat and extra protection by preventing direct contact between the watch case and skin. Today, the Bund watch strap is also popular outside military circles because of its distinctive look and wearing comfort.

 

The rugged, quirky look of a cuff strap is especially beautiful in combination with military watches and outdoor watches. But we also regularly find this type of band on fashion watches such as the Fossil Coachman.

 

Rally straps and perforated motorsport straps

The Rally watch strap - known for the three large round holes in both strap halves- originated in the 1960s. At that time, to reduce their overall weight and achieve higher speeds, racing cars had large recesses in various parts. In addition, the seats in race cars were perforated to increase air circulation and reduce driver sweating. This visual feature of racing cars was soon associated with the glamour of motorsports and applied as a style element in racing gloves and in watch straps.

Rally straps have a sporty look and distinctive sixties style that fits perfectly with vintage and retro watches as well as modern chronographs. 

 

Perforated straps

From the rally strap emerged the perforated strap. This watch strap has several rows of small holes in the leather. These watch straps also wear cooler than a normal leather strap, but are a lot less striking than the rally strap.

 

You will find this type of strap, with, among others, the brands Edox Hamilton and Tissot.

Edox 08202-3g-gin Sportman
▴ Edox 08202-3g-gin Sportman met Rally band
Tissot PRS 516 t1316173605200
▴ Tissot PRS 516 t1316173605200 met geperforeerde band

 

Metal watch bracelets

Besides leather, (stainless) steel is the most commonly used material for watch bracelets. Another commonly used material for metal watch bracelets is titanium. Lightweight, scratch-resistant and with a distinctive look.

 

What is the difference between stainless steel and titanium?

If you want to know more about the difference between steel and titanium watch bands, you can read more in our blog "Stainless steel or titanium watch? We help you choose".What both materials have in common is that they come in a wide variety of shapes and types. We discuss the most common types of metal watch bands below.

 

Milanese or mesh bands

The name of the popular Milanese strap (also known as Mesh strap) has its origins in Milan in the 13th century, where people specialised in metal braiding for chain mail.

 

A mesh band consists of a tight weave of thin stainless steel wire. This weave creates a smooth, elegant drape around the wrist, making this type of strap very suitable for formal watches. On the other hand, the fine metal structure also suits retro watches and modern designer watches perfectly.

 

The easily adjustable folding clasp of the mesh strap ensures a perfect fit and makes this type of strap suitable for all wrist sizes.

 

Shark mesh

The design of the Shark mesh bracelet was inspired by the protective mesh suits that divers wore to protect themselves from shark bites. This type of mesh bracelet became popular in the 1970s with the rise of diving watches. A shark mesh strap has larger links and a wider weave than a Milanese strap, making the strap fall even more smoothly. And thanks to the openings between the links, shark mesh also offers excellent breathability and moisture-wicking properties.

Needless to say, a Shark Mesh watch strap is a perfect match with a diving watch

Danish Design Akilia iq69q1267
▴ Danish Design Akilia iq69q1267 with mesh bracelet
Rolex yacht-master
▴ Rolex yacht-master with oyster bracelet

 

Oyster bracelets

The Oyster bracelet, was introduced by Rolex in the late 1930s. The solid, flat links of the Oyster bracelet are designed to withstand daily wear while providing a high degree of comfort. In the process, the Y-shaped construction of the links provide a high degree of flexibility. Although the Oyster remains inextricably linked to Rolex - who continue to further optimise the band - the name has now become the standard for all steel bracelets of this type.

 

Jubilee bracelets

The Jubilee bracelet was also originally developed by Rolex to celebrate the brand's 40th anniversary in 1945. Today, the Jubilee - like the Oyster - is an iconic and universally appreciated type of metal watch bracelet.

 

This type of strap is distinguished by its five rows of links - three narrow inner links flanked by two larger outer links. The design allows for a flexible and comfortable fit, with a sophisticated look that suits both casual and formal watches.

 

Rice grain bracelets

The rice-grain bracelet is comfortable and adapts to the wrist. This is due to the small, rounded links that resemble grains of rice and move indvidually in relation to each other providing great flexibility. These links exude a subtle elegance that particularly suits luxury (ladies') watches, for example from Balmain or Certina.

 

Rolex Datejust
▴ Rolex Datejust with jubilee bracelet
Certina DS-8
▴ Certina DS-8 with ricegrain bracelet

 

Integrated Bracelet

Not really a strap type, but more of a watch type and currently a huge trend in the world of watches: Watches with integrated watch bracelets. This is a watch where it looks like the steel bracelet is part of the case. This type of case and bracelet first became popular in the 1970s and, since the reintroduction of the Tissot PRX in 2020, is currently all the hype. It is a sleek, modernist bracelet design that you will find in addition to Tissot's own PRX collection in, among others, the Citizen and Festina watch collections.

Tissot PRX Powermatic-80
▴ Tissot PRX Powermatic-80 with integrated bracelet
Citizen Tsuyosa NJ0159-86Z
▴ Citizen Tsuyosa NJ0159-86Z with integrated bracelet

 

Silicone rubber straps

Silicone rubber is waterproof, flexible, can withstand the harshest (weather) conditions, and is stain-resistant. Moreover, rubber feels very comfortable on the wrist.

 

What is the difference between natural rubber and silicone?

The terms rubber and silicone are often used interchangeably. Most rubber watch straps are made of silicone. Silicone rubber is a hybrid form of synthetic rubber and plastic polymers. It is stronger and than natural rubber and can withstand heat and UV light better. Real natural rubber is made from the resin of the rubber tree and is therefore a lot more expensive than silicone rubber 

 

Tropic straps

The rubber counterpart to the perforated leather strap: The Tropic watch strap was the first rubber watch strap type ever made. First produced in the 1960s, it was marketed as an alternative to the metal watch bracelets widely used by athletes and recreational divers. While steel bracelets are rigid and heavy, Tropic straps are light, comfortable and resistant to seawater.These watch straps have a distinctive hole pattern that is both stylish and functional resulting in more breathability and comfort. Tropic straps additionally always have a regular buckle so they are easily adjustable.

 

Tropic is a fashionable, universally applicable watch strap that fits both older and modern casual sporty watches. 

 

Swiss military smwgo0003440 Watchman
▴ Swiss military smwgo0003440 Watchman with tropic strap
Citizen eo2028-06l Promaster
▴ Citizen eo2028-06l Promaster with diving strap

 

Diving straps

Another specific type of rubber strap are straps made specifically for diving watches. This strap can be recognised by the three waves in the rubber right after the point where the strap attaches to the case. This type of strap was originally developed in the 1970s for Seiko diving watches. The purpose of the waves is to move with the wearer's wrist. This is because pressure and temperature differences during diving can cause the wrist to become slightly thicker or thinner. Because the strap is flexible, it stretches slightly without immediately becoming too loose or too tight. This system for diver straps was soon adopted by other watch brands such as Citizen.

 

Besides the flexing waves, rubber watch bands for diving watches often have a special folding clasp that can be adjusted in size.

 

Textile watch straps

The great advantage of a watch strap made of textile is that it is resistant to water. In addition, textile is lightweight and soft to the touch. That is why, textile watch straps are mostly worn on sports watches and military watches.

 

NATO- and Zulu-straps

Besides the aviator and Bund straps, there is another watch strap inspired by the military: the NATO strap. These straps have their origins in the 1973 British Ministry of Defence Standard 66-15. They were originally called 'G10 straps', after the form soldiers had to fill in to apply for one. Although the strap is now available in a wide range of designs and colours, the original model was inconspicuously grey. 
NATO straps have a distinctive loop and buckle system that ensures the watch stays securely in place even if one of the pins connecting it to the case becomes loose. 

The one-piece (usually nylon) strap slides under the watch case, and has a secondary strap that you attach to the watch. The nylon strap is water-resistant and can even be washed if it gets dirty.

 

NATO straps are available in many different colours and patterns, allowing the watch to be perfectly personalised. Although purists think it should not be called a NATO strap, leather straps with the same construction are also available.

 

Zulu straps

Zulu straps, are very similar to NATO straps and are often confused with them. Zulu straps usually consist of a thicker, coarser-woven nylon strap and have larger, more robust metal buckles and loops with distinctive rounded corners. This design ensures that the strap is impact-resistant and resistant to wear and tear. That is why a Zulu strap is very suitable for extreme athletes.

 

NATO and Zulu straps go very well with sports watches and diving watches, but enthousiasts also often combine a NATO strap with fancier watches such as, for example, a vintage Rolex or Omega.

Orient Mako ra-ac0q05p10b
▴ Orient Mako ra-ac0q05p10b with leather NATO-strap
Swatch Moonswatch met NASA-band
▴ Swatch Moonswatch with NASA-band

 

NASA straps

NASA straps are inspired by the straps used by astronauts during space missions. They are usually one-piece and made of synthetic materials and offer a lot of adjustability and security as they are closed with Velcro. The design is purely focused on functionality, giving these straps a very sporty look.

 

Perlon straps

Perlon straps date back to the late 1950s when the development of synthetic fabrics was on the rise. Perlon is a type of nylon that has a unique combination of strength, tear resistance, flexibility and lightness, making it ideal for watch straps. Another notable feature is that the Perlon band is very easily adjustable in length. The band has no holes. Instead, you simply insert the pin of the buckle into an opening in the coarsely woven fabric. Ideal for real work watches and people looking for a water-resistant, super light and thin strap.

 

Paracord straps

Paracord bands are made from rope normally used in the rigging of parachutes. This type of strap is mainly applied to outdoor watches because paracord can be used in survival situations. For example, the frayed rope can be used to make fire and the inner thread can be utilised as fishing line.
Paracord straps can be found in the collection of Victorinox and Luminox.

Perlon straps
▴ Perlon straps
Victorinox I.N.O.X
▴ Victorinox I.N.O.X with paracord strap

 

And that's not even all!

And that's not even all watch strap types! In this article, we have covered only the most common watch strap types. Now, we haven't even talked about Rolex's President bands, metal stretch bands (bonklip), rubber waffle bands, etc. And we could also write another article on the different shapes, fillings and stitching of leather straps. Or on the different types of (end) links of metal bracelets.

 

Do you have a question about a strap type not described in this article or do you need advice on which type of strap is most suitable for your watch? Then please contact our Customer Service. They will be happy to help you!

 

If you want to read more about maintaining your watch strap, you can do so in the articles 'How do I keep my metal watch strap looking nice?' and 'How do I keep my leather watch strap looking good?'. In the article 'What's the difference between a folding clasp and a butterfly clasp?' we discuss the different watch strap closures.

 

Replace your watch strap yourself?

Would you like to change your watch strap yourself and give your watch a different look? On our page about watch straps you will find all the information and extensive collections of watch straps of both well-known brands and universal watch straps.