Stainless steel or titanium watch? We help you make a choice

We regularly get asked the question: “Which is better, a stainless steel or titanium watch?” The answer is important for those looking for a new watch for themselves or as a gift. Because both metals have different properties that influence the appearance and wearing comfort of the watch. In this blog we list the advantages and disadvantages of stainless steel and titanium, so that you can make the best choice.

Stainless steel VS titanium, the pros and cons

Advantages of a stainless steel watch

• Stainless steel is a strong and durable material that is widely available
• Stainless Steel has a neutral, timeless and sporty appearance and
• Is available in many different finishes (color, polish, brushing).

Disadvantages of a stainless steel watch

• Stainless steel is relatively heavy, This makes an automatic watch or (larger) sports watch with many functions feel extra heavy.
• The material is sensitive to temperature changes and can feel cold to the skin.
• Large temperature fluctuations affect the waterresistance due to the material expanding and contracting.
• Stainless steel usually contains nickel, a metal that some people have an allergic reaction to.

Advantages of a titanium watch

• Titanium is strong, lightweight and resistant to temperature changes, making it very suitable for watches where water resistance must be guaranteed.
• Titanium has excellent resistance to (sea) water and is therefore very suitable for diving watches.
• The metal is hypoallergenic, anyone can wear it, and it feels warm on the wrist.
• Titanium does scratch, but light scratches 'repair' themselves due to the natural oxide layer of the material.

Disadvantages of a titanium watch 

• Titanium is more expensive than stainless steel, but due to its extremely light weight, a titanium watch can feel a bit cheap.
• Fewer titanium watches are being made, so the choice is more limited.
• Because titanium is harder and more difficult to polish, the finish is usually less surprising than with steel watches and Unfortunately, scratches cannot be polished away.
• The natural color and shine of titanium is - depending on the coating used - somewhat duller and grayer than that of stainless steel (although that is also a matter of taste).

Why choose a stainless steel watch?

Stainless steel watches are the standard in the watch industry. As a result, these watches often have a timeless appearance. It is a material that is strong, solid and easy to maintain. If the steel should unexpectedly become scratched, the watchmaker can polish it during maintenance. 
 

Stainless steel is versatile and can be cast or formed into many different shapes. This makes stainless steel the perfect material for creative designers to develop new forms of watches and straps that are durable.

Most metal watches are made of stainless steel, even if gold or rose gold tinted. By using different types of scratch-resistant colour layers, stainless steel is an affordable alternative to real gold and silver. This colour layer is applied to the steel with a special (PVD - physical vapor deposition) coating.

And stainless steel watches are available in all price ranges. This way you have a good watch that will last a long time for a reasonable price.

Why choose a titanium watch?

Titanium watches can be found in the watch collections of almost all well-known watch brands. It is a popular choice for those who want something different from the “standard” stainless steel, but opt ​​for a strong and durable material instead of, for example, plastic.

The material is very strong, but lightweight and therefore offers great wearing comfort. Titanium is also hypoallergenic, meaning it will not cause allergic reactions in people with sensitive skin. And titanium is a non-magnetic metal, making it useful for people who work near magnetized machinery.

The light weight and neutral colour of titanium makes it a popular material among watch designers such as Jacob Jensen or Danish Design. Titanium is also an ideal material for sports watches that need to be able to take a beating.

One thing is certain: titanium is a special metal. It is perfect for heavy (automatic) timepieces, where the light weight of the case and strap compensates for the heaviness of the movement. Furthermore, its lightness and surface finish provide a warmer and more organic feel on the wrist.

What is Stainless Steel?

Before the 1930s, most pocket and wristwatches were made from precious metals such as gold, silver and platinum because steel was too difficult for watchmakers to shape and machine. This all changed after the Wall Street Crash in 1929 and the subsequent global depression. The demand for watches made of precious metal plummeted, so there was a need for more affordable basic materials. Combined with improved technology and production resources, stainless steel quickly became the standard for most watches.

Stainless steel - also called Inox - is not a standalone type of metal. It is always an alloy: a mixture of metal with other chemical elements, usually iron, chromium, nickel and carbon. To be considered stainless steel, it must contain a minimum of 11% chromium and a maximum of 1.2% carbon.

The amount of carbon determines the hardness of the steel. A type of steel with a lot of carbon is difficult to machine. 316L (the 'L' stands for 'low carbon') steel has a low carbon content and is therefore easier to work with. That is why this type of stainless steel is most commonly used in the production of watches and jewelry.

There are many different types of steel for different applications. By treating the steel with an oxide layer of chromium and purifying it of contaminants, it becomes more resistant to rusting. However, this does not mean that stainless steel cannot rust (corrode) at all. It is very sensitive to chlorine. 
Stainless steels such as 316L, whose alloy contains the element molybdenum, are more resistant to chlorine and corrosion. Nevertheless, we recommend that you always rinse your watch with chlorine-free drinking water after swimming in a swimming pool with chlorinated water.

904L stainless steel contains a higher concentration of molybdenum, chromium and nickel than 316L, and also contains copper, silicon and manganese. This makes it an even more corrosion-resistant material that can be polished to a higher level. Additionally, the lower carbon and higher chromium content of 904L steel gives it a slightly cooler tone. 904L steel is more expensive than 316L because it is a more difficult material to work with and requires specific equipment. 904L is the type of steel that Rolex has been using for watches since 2003.

What is Titanium?

Titanium as a material for watches was introduced in 1970 by Citizen, which launched a range of quartz watches under the name X8. Today, Citizen is still one of the market leaders in the use of titanium in watches with their own Super Titanium. Using a patented process called Duratect, the soft material titanium is hardened until it is five times harder and more scratch resistant than stainless steel.

Titanium (or titan) is a metal that is as strong as steel, but has only 60% the density and is 40% lighter in weight. Titanium is easy to work with and is therefore also used as a material for jewelry and watches.

Another important property of titanium is that it is biologically inert: the human body does not reject it and it is not toxic. Titanium is also widely used as a material for prostheses, implants and piercings because of its anti-allergenic properties and because it is anti-magnetic.

In contrast to stainless steel, titanium is naturally protected against corrosion (rusting) by a final titanium oxide layer, making titanium resistant to seawater and chlorinated swimming water. 
 

The production of titanium is (much) more expensive than the production of steel. Because the metal reacts easily with oxygen and carbon at high temperatures, it is difficult to produce pure titanium.

Conclusion

Watches are available in many different shapes, colours and sizes. The case and strap materials used can make a significant difference in the overall quality and durability of the watch. Stainless steel and titanium differ little from each other in this respect; both materials are strong and remain beautiful for a long time.

Externally, the differences are greater: titanium is slightly darker and duller in colour than steel. What is more beautiful is a matter of taste. And due to ever-advancing technology, it is becoming increasingly easier to give titanium watches a more shiny coating. See, for example, Boccia's extensive collection of titanium watches.

Then the question is what one prefers: is the weight of a watch of decisive importance, or is there a metal allergy at play? Then titanium is the best choice. For a watch in a special colour or a gold-toned watch that looks natural, steel is the best option.

And finally, your budget is also important. You can buy a titanium watch with a leather strap from around £85. All-steel watches are available from around £35.